Bahawalpur Division

Tehsil Rahimyar Khan

Tehsil Sadiq Abad

Tehsil Liaqatpur

Tehsil Khanpur

Notes & Observations

• All tehsil-level population figures are from the official 2023 census data.
• The total of all district populations (5,564,703 + 3,550,342 + 4,284,964) matches the overall division population of 13,400,009.
• Tehsil populations within each district sum closely (minor rounding differences) to their respective district totals.

The Cholistan Desert, locally known as Rohi, is a vast desert region in southern Punjab, Pakistan, forming the westernmost extension of the Greater Thar Desert, which stretches from Sindh province across the border into India’s Rajasthan. Along with the Thal Desert in northern Punjab, it is one of the two major desert systems of the province. The name “Cholistan” is commonly understood as a combination of the Turkic word chol (meaning “sand” or “desert”) and the Persian suffix -istan (meaning “land”), thus translating roughly to “land of sands.”

Ancient Cholistan was a thriving center of human civilization, notably marked by a dense cluster of settlements from the Indus Valley Civilization (Harappan culture). Archaeological surveys have identified over 400 sites, many dating as far back as 4000 BCE, established along the dried bed of the Hakra River, believed by many historians to be the mythical Saraswati of Vedic texts. This river, fed by meltwaters from the Himalayas, once sustained a rich agrarian landscape here. As the river dried up by the late second millennium BCE, many of these settlements declined, leaving behind a network of mysterious mounds. In the medieval period, the region regained prominence as a strategic caravan trade corridor, linking Multan, Delhi, and the ports of Gujarat, prompting the construction of a chain of forts to protect the trade routes. The most spectacular of these is the imposing Derawar Fort, originally built by the Hindu Bhatti Rajput rulers and later rebuilt in the 18th century by the Abbasi Nawabs of Bahawalpur.

Geographically, Cholistan covers most of the southern districts of Bahawalpur, Bahawalnagar, and Rahim Yar Khan, spreading over an estimated 25,800 square kilometers (about 10,000 square miles). The desert stretches roughly 480 kilometers in length, with a width varying between 32 and 192 kilometers. It is a landscape of stark contrasts: about 19% comprises alluvial flats and small fixed dunes, remnants of old river systems, while the remaining 81% is dominated by mobile sand dunes shaped continually by strong desert winds. Due to minimal vegetation cover, wind erosion and shifting sands drive a process of ongoing desertification, challenging local pastoral communities who depend on seasonal grazing and rain-fed water ponds called tobas.

Despite its harsh, arid environment, Cholistan is home to resilient semi-nomadic tribes known as Cholistanis, who have adapted over centuries to the rhythms of desert life. They move seasonally with their herds of camels, goats, and sheep, tracking sparse pastures and collecting water from natural rain-fed ponds (tobas) and underground tanks (kunds). Camels are central to their livelihoods — valued not just as beasts of burden, but also for milk, meat, and cultural status.

The Cholistanis preserve a vibrant cultural heritage. They are famed for their distinctive embroidery styles on garments and textiles, especially chundri (tie-dye), khaddar (hand-woven wool), and intricate mirror work, which reflect both artistic sensibilities and ancient caravan influences. They also excel in camel leathercraft, producing beautifully tooled saddles, footwear, and ornamental items that are sought after across Pakistan. Their oral traditions include soulful Saraiki folk songs and ballads, often performed around campfires during gatherings or seasonal festivals.

Long before it became a vast arid expanse, the Cholistan was sustained by a mighty river system. The region was once traversed by the Hakra River, a continuation of the Ghaggar–Hakra system, often linked to the mythical Saraswati River of ancient texts. This river, fed by Himalayan meltwaters and possibly connected in antiquity to the Sutlej, nurtured rich soils and supported flourishing human settlements. Between 4000 B.C.E. and 600 B.C.E., these waters made Cholistan one of the most vibrant regions of the Indus Valley Civilization (Harappan culture).

By the 1970s, archaeological surveys had documented over 400 Harappan sites spread across Cholistan, with another 37 added by the 1990s, making this one of the densest clusters of Indus Valley settlements anywhere. Notable among these is the large urban site of Ganweriwal, believed to have been a major center contemporary with Harappa and Mohenjo-Daro. As climate patterns shifted and the Hakra river dried up, many settlements declined. This decline led to the emergence of the Cemetery H culture, a regional post-Harappan phase marked by distinctive burial practices, followed by influences of the Painted Grey Ware civilization, signaling continued habitation through evolving cultural phases.

With time, Cholistan transformed into a crucial caravan route, linking Multan, Delhi, and Gujarat’s ports. This brought prosperity but also the need for protection. During the medieval period, rulers constructed an extensive network of forts to guard trade convoys and local settlements.

The Derawar Fort, with its iconic 40 massive bastions, stands as the best-preserved symbol of this era. Originally built by the Hindu Bhatti Rajputs and later magnificently rebuilt by the Abbasi Nawabs of Bahawalpur in the 18th century, it dominates the desert horizon. But Derawar is only the most famous among many. Cholistan is home to large forts like Meergarh, Jaangarh, Marotgarh, Maujgarh, Dingarh, Khangarh, Khairgarh, Bijnotgarh, and Islamgarh, whose very names (the suffix garh meaning “fort”) echo their martial purpose. Located roughly 40 miles south and generally aligned along the ancient courses of the Indus and Sutlej rivers, these forts collectively trace a protective line across the desert’s historical trade arteries. Many are now on the UNESCO Tentative List of World Heritage Sites, awaiting further study and conservation. Beyond these are smaller yet strategically important forts such as Bara, Bhagla, Duheinwala, Falji, Kandera, Liara, Murid, Machki, Nawankot, and Phulra, each adding to Cholistan’s unparalleled archaeological wealth.

Cholistan’s harsh yet fragile ecosystem sustains a surprising variety of wildlife. It is home to graceful chinkara gazelles, stealthy caracals, desert foxes, hares, and a wealth of reptiles. In winter, the desert becomes a critical stopover for migratory birds such as the houbara bustard, drawing international conservation interest. The flora is dominated by hardy, drought-resistant shrubs and trees like phog, ber, and khejri, essential for stabilizing dunes and providing fodder. The Cholistan Desert, with its sweeping golden dunes, ancient forts like majestic Derawar, and warm-hearted nomadic tribes, offers a journey back in time.

To preserve this delicate environment, the Cholistan Wildlife Sanctuary and nearby Lal Suhanra National Park work to protect endangered species and fragile habitats. However, challenges from overgrazing, water scarcity, and climate change loom large. Meanwhile, modern initiatives such as the famous Cholistan Jeep Rally, camel festivals, and heritage tourism are bringing new economic opportunities, linking the timeless rhythms of desert life to contemporary aspirations. Evenings come alive with the soulful strains of Saraiki folk songs, while local artisans proudly display intricate tie-dye chundri fabrics and camel leather crafts — timeless traditions of this extraordinary desert land.